24 ways with harukei turnips

by Market CSA member Denise Graveline

I used to love Mark Bittman's "summer express" recipes, where he'd write 101 easy, 10-minutes or less recipes you could make in summer. But what I loved most were how short they were. Hardly a recipe at all, making them seem even easier.

I want to apply that standard to recipes for harukei turnips, the vegetable that is perhaps most misunderstood on the Owl's Nest CSA farmers market stand. These are the bunches of clean, white, small turnips--usually stacked next to the radishes--with their green tops attached. If you don't like turnips, you have probably skipped right by them.

If so, you are missing out on a non-turnip-y turnip. Harukei are Japanese in origin, which suggests some different preparations than you might have been considering. The taste is almost sweet and crisp, mild in flavor, like a radish without all the sass and bite, so you can lean either sweet or savory and still do well. The greens also are edible, making it a 2-for-1 vegetable bargain. And it's versatile: You can mash, boil, braise, roast, saute, or eat it raw. Finally, it lasts a long time under refrigeration.

I don't quite have 101 short recipes for using harukei, but here are 24 of them. Don't leave these versatile veg on the farm stand!

  • Slice thin and use in place of chips with your favorite dip. I love guacamole, but when I have guests who don't go for spicy, this avocado-basil dip works great.
  • Use a trifecta of CSA products and stir-fry them with spring onions, green garlic, and tofu.
  • Play up the harukei's sweet side in a salad of arugula, harukei, strawberries, and more.
  • Make a mash: Boil the harukei, mash them with garlic, salt, pepper, butter, and fresh dill.
  • Glaze them in a little butter, sugar, and salt.
  • Saute them with their greens (blanch the greens first) in a little olive oil, with a grind of black pepper and some salt. This dish then can be a side dish or main; a pizza topping; or a fancy salad course.
  • Do that same saute, but include some cannelini beans or tofu for a protein boost.
  • Do the above salad (no. 6) but over polenta, or chop the roasted turnips smaller and fill a baked potato with them.
  • Put a slice in your fancy cocktail, in lieu of an olive in a gin martini. By the time you finish your drink, you can eat the quick-pickled harukei.
  • Pan-roast them with a glaze of honey, cayenne, salt, and pepper. This stands on its own, and could also make an amazing omelet filling.
  • Go to their Japanese roots: Cut in matchsticks along with Asian pear. Squeeze of lime. Maybe a drizzle of honey. Easy salad. (Can a Japanese root go to its roots?)
  • Toss with stale bread, tomatoes, and asparagus in a panzanella, or bread salad.
  • More Asian influence: Roast them with miso.
  • Make a couscous salad: Roast the turnip bulbs with red chili flakes, olive oil, salt and pepper. Saute the greens. Chop some red onion and cook Israeli couscous, mix them with the greens, and top with the turnips. A quick dressing of lemon juice, olive oil, and salt and pepper is all your need.
  • Pickle them, so you have some beyond the summer.
  • Your crudite board, duh. They will hold up beautifully in hot weather, staying nice and crisp.
  • Roast them in some oil, salt, and pepper, then coat with a pesto of your choice.
  • Stir-fry with shrimp and chili flakes. Add a squeeze of lime juice at the end.
  • Glaze them in maple syrup and serve with soba noodles and shitake mushrooms. Watch a video of this recipe here.
  • Chop or slice and toss in a green salad, or use in place of celery in a mayonnaise-based tuna, egg, or chicken salad.
  • Put the greens in a cacio e pepe pasta, and make a salad of the turnips with pears.
  • Toss in oil, salt, pepper, and grill them. They'll hold up on their own or on skewers.
  • Stir fry with the chopped greens in a ginger-soy glaze.
  • Boil turnip chunks with potatoes; saute the greens with scallions. Make a turnip-potato mash and top with the greens.

​The CSA as freezer-cleaner, and what to do with all those strawberries

by Market CSA member Denise Graveline

Today, I not only grabbed good stuff at the Owl's Nest Farm stand at Petworth Community Market, I also picked up a shipment of seafood from a buying club I belong to. It lets you buy quantities of salmon, spot prawns, and more, flash-frozen right off the boat and shipped in a group shipment. So that prompted an early morning cleanup of the freezer to be sure I had enough room for everything, from veg to fish. Supermarkets will be seeing a lot less of me this season.

But I made sure there's some room in the freezer for a secret weapon: A strawberry puree to be used for making ice cream. I got five pints this morning, and after they soaked in water and vinegar, I trimmed the tops. I'm going to roast them, tossed with balsamic vinegar and a little sugar, then puree them and store at least a couple of pints of this mix packed flat in plastic zip-top bags. I just need one pint at a time to make this balsamic strawberry-rosemary ice cream, so freezing some of the puree means I can have this treat all summer long. I picked up fresh rosemary this week for the same purpose, although the rosemary gets infused in the cream-egg base of the ice cream.​ I'll save some strawberries to eat just as they are, and hope there's one more week for me to grab another stash. These strawberries are small and flavorful, sweet and firm. Perfect for all sorts of cooked and raw dishes.

I also got more of the sprouted broccoli--can't stop eating it--and the kohlrabi. I'm going to try the kohlrabi-carrot slaw that the farm recommended this week, and I'm going to saute the kohlrabi greens and bok choi greens together with some garlic, onion, and broth, to serve as a base for some scallops with sorrel sauce, made a couple of weeks ago. Spring is the season of green everything, strawberries excepted, so I'm also going to make the Silver Palate Green Sauce described here with some of my farm herb finds; it's easy to adjust this sauce to make it vegan. And this article from The Splendid Table about using scraps and ends shares some great recipes from the new book Scraps, Wilt & Weeds: Turning Wasted Food into Plenty; now that the farm is offering head lettuce, you can try the recipe for seared lettuce bottoms, and there's a thyme oil--one that uses stems and all--that I have my eye on.

Dealer's choice, the CSA share, and flavor

by Owl's Nest Market CSA member Denise Graveline

Today, I got to the Petworth Community Market too late for strawberries from Owl's Nest Farm, but told the farmers that I'm okay with the "dealer's choice" aspects of subscribing to a CSA. Liz observed that it pushes you into cooking that's based more on the seasons, and she's right. Letting the ingredients suggest what you cook, rather than shopping with a list of must-haves, leads to some great and unexpected meals.

This week, in addition to some seedlings for my own garden--hot and sweet peppers, and lettuce--I chose baby bok choi, sorrel, sprouting broccoli, cilantro, and the mild hakurei turnips. From last week, I had some sprouting broccoli, tat soi, and some radishes. Once I got home, I washed and started looking at my finds and figuring out what to make from them.

I cooked down the sorrel and tat soi and pureed it into a sauce I can use on vegetables, fish, or meat. The ingredients include butter, shallots, garlic, and broth. You can add lemon juice, but sorrel has so much tartness, I didn't add any. This New York Times recipe is a good guide. I have some Alaskan scallops that will be in this sauce soon, and I may make some of it into a cold soup.

Making sauces is a great way to cook down vegetables so they take up less space in the fridge. I have two bunches of cilantro from the farm, and this cilantro sauce may be what results. Cilantro sauce on tacos, breakfast eggs, in soups, in some mayo for sandwiches--I'm ready. In the meantime, I store my bunches of cilantro stem end down in a short glass of water, with a plastic bag over the top. And this is lovely, fresh, delicate cilantro that also packs a flavor punch, a far cry from the dry supermarket version.

You may choose a CSA for political reasons, but I've come to love my share for the flavor. Nutrition researcher Marion Nestle, in her landmark book What to Eat, recalls a tour of a California broccoli farm's warehouse and processing plant. She absentmindedly broke a piece of broccoli off from a crate of the stuff, and tasted it during the tour. She was shocked at how fresh, water-filled, and tender it was...before it got shipped 3,000 miles to her New York neighborhood. Owl's Nest Farms sprouting broccoli is just like that, and I've been getting as much as I can carry. All of it got steamed lightly, so it's ready to be served cold with a vinaigrette; go into a quiche or frittata; or get reheated as a side dish. And over tofu marinated in this way, from Faye Food. I make this tofu and serve it over soba noodles and then do as she suggests, piling on cooked and raw veg. I can see this with sprouted broccoli in a vinaigrette, some avocado, and maybe some of the bok choi.

Baby bok choi is such a gift, and another of those early season vegetables, as Liz reminded me, that has to be picked before it starts sprouting flowers. As a result, Owl's Nest Farm's baby bok choi has stalks, not bulbs, and is young and super-tender. I'm planning to stir-fry it using this recipe, which features sesame flavors. If you're new to vegetables coming straight from the farm, you'll find that sautes and stir-fries take much less time, as the vegetables are young and tender, and have a higher water content.